...but does it sell ad space? Vogue Italia will soon find out when it goes to print with its groundbreaking July 2008 issue, which was shot using all black models (read: Zero white models. In a fashion magazine. Yes, this is hard to grasp). Steven Meisel shot the entire issue, in hopes the move will encourage other magazines and designers to diversify. The main argument from designers who request "no ethnics" for runway shows and magazines who feature white models almost exclusively is that "black models don't sell."
So when asked why she decided to do this, editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani, said: "Because nobody is using black girls. I see so many beautiful girls and they were complaining that they are not used enough." Interestingly, Italian Vogue hasn't had a black model on its cover since 2002.
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Well, change is coming! Seventeen year old British ingenue, Jourdan Dunn, has landed the coveted coverspot. Somewhere Chanel Iman is crying bitter tears into her silk pillow. Don't fret my pet, you're still fab to me! Chanel will be featured inside along with Iman, Naomi, Liya and many other less well known models.
Iman had this to say about the issue: "I still don't like us (black models) to be a caricature. They'll think, 'Okay, we did it.' And then they're done with it, and we'll have to wait till next year." She added that in 2007 black models were "nonexistent" and she felt the fashion and beauty industries are out of touch. "When you see commercials and movies and every other form of art in terms of entertainment, you never have this conversation," she said. "So it is so outdated." She continued, "I can only say that one of the reasons is that models have never had unions, so there is no one to say, 'This isn't right.'"
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I'm all for this issue and will be eagerly scouring my local Borders for my copy, but it does feel a bit like stunt casting. Will Vogue Italia now feature black models on a more regular basis? Will this be the kick in the bum that the fashion world needs to get real diversity on the runways? I suppose only time will tell.
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Talitha Getty seated on steps wearing Moroccan copper crown, Berber wedding dress, and canvas boots from London. Photographer: Maurice Hogenboom. Location:Marrakech, Morocco. ca. April 1971. A Conde Nast Archive
J. Paul Getty, Jr. and wife Talitha, wearing Moroccan caftans on the terrace of their holiday home in Marrakech. Photographer: Patrick Lichfield, ca January, 1970. Location: Marrakech, Morocco. A Conde Nast Archive
Yves Saint Laurent Exbition: Vogue fashion editor Andre Leon Talley and super model Iman arriving at the opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Exhibition on YSL. Photographer: Tony Palmieri. Date: December 06, 1983. Location: Manhattan, New York, New York. A Conde Nast Archive
Model Beverly Johnson sitting on a rocky beach, wearing a textured knit cardigan by Bonnie Casin's Knittery, with white cotton panta by Jones, a choker neclace and a white bangle bracelet. Photographer: Francesco Scavullo. Location: New York, New York. Date: December 1975. A Conde Nast Archive
Fashion designer Stephen Burrows with model Beth Ann Harding at the opening party for Tommy. Photographer: Sal Traina. Date: March 18, 1975. Location: New York, New York. A Conde Nast Archive
