History of the Handbag

Alexander McQueen S/S 2008 stamped crocodile minaudière

Ever wondered how handbags became absolute fashion musts? Well on a random trip to my local library, I lucked up on an exhibit called "The Handbag: A History of Style." How very serendipitous! Here's a short history of my favorite accessory, courtesy of the Morris County Historical Society:

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The earliest historically verifiable handbags - little sacks containing pomanders (scented oranges), flint and money - were carried by gentlemen and known as "pockets." These were hung by thongs from the back of the girdle and were often cut from behind by thieves who knew how to capitalize on a friendly pat on the back; hence the name "cut purse."

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By the 1400s, both men and women were wearing purses, and as times prospered and the little sacks got fuller, they were ornamented with gold or elaborate embroidery.

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A century later, the drawstring bag was a status possession. Paintings of that era show flat bags gathered by tasseled strings. By the end of the century, however, fashion went undercover, as women preferred to wear their pouches under their skirts.

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In 1670, breeches with built-in pockets came into fashion and men dispensed with their handbags. But they did continue to carry a little netted "purse" for money inside the pocket.

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In the 18th century, pouches for both men and women disappeared. After the French Revolution, however, the style of women's clothes was so delicate that it was impossible for them to contain a pocket. Out into the open came the handbag, then known as a reticule (and occasionally a "ridicule" by men whose idea that was of a good joke).

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Skirts became more ample, and pockets won the next round. Even when dresses grew tighter in the 1880s, handbags were slow to return. The real renaissance for bags came around the turn of the century, with the advent of the hobble skirt. A pocket was an impossibility, and very large handbags carried by long strings or chains became popular.

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In the 20's, as dresses got skimpier, handbags became indispensable, and have remained so until the present, both as a utility and as a fashion item reflecting a personal style. Now every fashion has its handbag and every woman can have a wardrobe of shapes and colors.

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In addition, a new chapter in handbag history is being written, as men's fashions become leaner, and more and more men discover the convenience of toting their belongings in a handsome hand or shoulderbag.

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Twentieth century technology has opened up a treasure of textures and materials from space age synthetics to hand-woven straws. There are rain-proof bags for stormy days, sturdy totes for the beach, delicate fabric for evening, and squashy shoulder bags for casual wear. In short, a fascinating variety of handbags for every mood, every outfit and every occasion. Fashion is in the bag!